This month, Midnight Hour replies to a reader's query (and a Frequently Asked Question - (FAQ)) - the question was brief and to the point, referring to an article in an American publication on Police Shakedowns in Bangkok. The reader's question and an excerpt of the article are immediately below.
Bangkok Eyes,
Is this on your radar at all? Certainly a disincentive to return to the Land Of Smiles...
J.
- oOo -
TIME QUOTE - "
The Land of Smiles? How about the Land of Shakedowns?
Mastercard’s 2014 Global Destination Cities Index recently ranked Bangkok as the second most visited destination in the world after London. Spend a few days this hedonistic metropolis and you'll soon understand why, for it offers an almost unbeatable mix of culture, edgy nightlife, cheap shopping, comfortable hotels, warm weather and — who can say no? — Thai cuisine.
But since the May 22coup d’état that saw the ouster of a democratically elected government and martial law declared across the country, many tourists and expatriates in Bangkok have fallen prey to a criminal practice. The victims have little recourse when reporting incidents to the police, because the perpetrators are police officers.
“If you go to Sukhumvit Road, you can see the police looking for tourists who are smoking or drop a cigarette butt, then they ask them for their passport and make them pay 2,000 baht [just over $60]. I see this happening all the time,” says anticorruption politician Chuwit Kamolvisit. ...." **
  ...more at http://time.com/3674200/thailand-tourism-police-corruption-shakedown-extortion/
" - END TIME QUOTE
Midnight Hour REPLIES :
I am out on the streets most nights. I am stopped at, and proceed through, the Police /Military checkpoints like everyone else. Since implementation of Martial Law, I have never been harassed, either (on foot) on the streets, in bars or in taxis. And in spite of being in touch with the Bangkok Nightlife Scene as well as most, I am yet to receive a first-person account of shakedowns from personal friends, acquaintances or my 'network' of reliable sources. Nor have I ever witnessed foreigners being harassed by Police or the Military since the military takeover in May of last year. I see the Time article as very poorly researched - specifically linking an increase in alleged Police extortion with the implementation of Martial Law. Time had a reported isolated incident and hearsay as their support. Also it should be noted that the reporter, as have many others, commingled and confused the functions and responsibilities of the Thai Police and the Military, and their relationship with one another.
To the contrary, the article appears to be one of many that support, or tend to support, the official US view that the current transitional Military Government is 'undemocratic, therefore bad'. (Somehow defining 'election' as the sole criterion for, and synonymous with 'democracy'...). In fact, the streets have been much more peaceful, and the police checks against civilians have been less egregious, fewer shakedowns than before. I repeat, while there are still shakedown incidents -common in Bangkok for decades- there are much fewer, and they are much less egregious than in previous times.
I have never heard, seen or read an (authoritative) account of a foreigner having to take a roadside piss test - as quoted later in the article. Nor have any of my longtime-Bangkok resident friends. As far as I am concerned, this is bullshit - until proven otherwise.
The military takeover has made a huge difference in the stability and security on the streets - and I mean 'positive' difference. If the military keeps its word and returns Thailand to a 'democratic-form-of-government' (as scheduled), it will have been a grand, unmitigated success. I live in the area of Bangkok which was taken over by the Red Shirt anarchists on two successive upsurges. I have seen the treachery of their hard-core thugs eyeball-to-eyeball, their snipers, their arsonists, and I have photographed it. Since the implementation of Martial Law there has been no more blood on the streets, either Yellow or Red.
Also, as a side note, while I am no fan of Chuwit 'Uncle Hot-Tub' Kamolwisit, he is quoted out of context - his remarks regarding the 'Sukhumvit litter-police' in no way implied that this practice was implemented during, or was exacerbated by, the current interim Military regime. The 'litter-police' scam has been going on for years. American journalism failing big-time - again.....
Frankly, articles like this, entirely unrepresentative and poorly researched, totally piss me off. It's time to set the record straight. Better yet, come to Thailand and see for yourself.
For the record, yes Midnight Hour reads the blogs. Yes, we read the local English and Thai papers. Our conclusion from first-hand observations on the street, and from reading legitimate publications, is that many 'blogs' and much of the foreign Media go to print without verification. We have found it 'best policy' to either print known facts, or if it cannot be substantiated by us, we clearly so state.
** - Copyright Time Inc. Network - This excerpt conforms to Copyright Law 17 USC - Fair Use Clauses
As early as 2004 we were hearing from the taxi drivers of a Nightlife Area near Jatujak Park (common pronunciation : 'Chatuchak') which, according to stories, was sometimes visited by farang. By 2006 it had reached "critical mass". Midnight Hour first surveyed the Jatujak Night Entertainment Area at the end of July of that year (see our story HERE<LINK>). Leaping forward in time, in the middle of 2014, we noticed that there was an unusual number of Nitespots closing down - what we didn't know was that it was the beginning of the end.
The Seven Nights was one of the better appointed Nitespots, offering food, drink, dancing and live music.
- File photos
JATUJAK NIGHT ENTERTAINMENT AREA
Our initial 2006 survey / visit was an eye-opener - this was not just another bar beer area, there was a number of permanent entertainment structures offering live music and dancing. At the time of the original survey, there were 20 Night Entertainment Venues and a number of restaurants. However, the custom was almost exclusively "Thai Yuppie", and very few farang faces were seen there. (Although we were most welcome on each of our visits.)
On our visit last weekend, we noted that most of the structures had been pulled down, or were in the process of being taken down. Many of the remaining buildings had been spray-painted with graffiti. It appears that the massive S.R.T. land development projects on the West side of Kampheng Phet 2 Road are extending down from the JJ Mall area to Kampheng Phet Road, taking out this once-popular Night Entertainment Area. The area never really had a formal name, so we were calling it either Chatuchak Night Entertainment Area, or Jatujak Night Entertainment Area. But regardless of spelling, this group of Nitespots has been relegated to the bone yard, now but a footnote in the greater history of Bangkok's Night Entertainment Scene.
Re: The Carlton. This was a good restaurant on Silom Road which served Kobi steaks. Any idea what happened to it?
Regards,
B.
Greetings, B,
We recall the Carlton Restaurant with fond memories, including the occasional drunken Thai nak leng wannabes commandeering the microphone, singing, or trying to sing karaoke for their mia noi's late into the evenings. Even in later years, with it's tattered, unkempt look and cigarette-burned tablecloths it was still a fun place, and still had great food. The Carlton was one of the first with a real European / French menu. It disappeared on New Years Eve, December 31, 2008, according to reports (although we didn't find out until some time later).
We can answer virtually any (reasonable) question on the Expat Night Entertainment Scene in Bangkok - be it Historical or very recent. Send us an e-mail and we will do our best to answer you soonest.
After a few months' dead-time, the Camelot Castle has reopened. Although you won't recognize it. The sign has been (mercifully) left off, and it now looks like an indoor bar beer. Which is what it is. How the mighty have fallen..... Nevertheless, welcome them back to the slippery slope.
The Pink continues to see just how far they can push it. They are trying, as they have several times before, to reclaim use of the internationally registered name, "Pink Panther". And each time the Sign Gestapos come around (later if not sooner) and make them change the neon back to their legally registered name. I'll remain a fly on the wall and see how long they get away with it this time....
Up on level 2, that wildish-thing Bubbles has something new. Bubbles. Real ones.
NANA PLAZA
Sometimes the answers actually are in the fine print. London Calling is still displaying it's old name, Hollywood Rock (English and Thai). ...It occasionally takes a very long time to get the legal name of a bar changed. Oh, and a fair bit of money, at least for some....
Finnegan's Irish Pub (& Restaurant) was closed when we passed by last weekend. Should it reopen, we shall duly inscribe. The fat guy lying on the doorstep is not dead, he's just sleeping one off - we checked.... The other guy sitting on the steps is a babbling Finn.
SOI NANA
The brand-new Sabaidee Massage is new to the Rajah Hotel compound. Located up against the main building.
SOI NANA
For some of you readers who have written in, yes, technically the Jersey Club, the Bangkokney, the Hangout Pub and The Cabin are on Soi 6, but we will continue to report them in the Soi Nana Night Entertainment Area in that they are contiguous and can be accessed from Soi Nana.
Often while doing our monthly survey, we are asked at the entrance to Patpong 2 (Silom side) if it is Soi Katoey. And, vice-versa, couples at the Silom Road entrance to Soi Katoey frequently ask me if this is Patpong Road. In the event one is intending to go to Soi Katoey, it is (at least formally) "Silom Soi 4" but it is much more recognizable by the Sunrise Tacos on the corner.
The Bit Style Fantasy Massage Club opened as scheduled (see our blurb last issue). Located in Soi Big Mango. May Lady Luck smile as they throw their hat in the ring.
SOI 22 - (Sukhumvit)
The Happy Massage has opened it's doors in Soi Lemongrass. A totally ambiguous massage shop. Welcome them as they wade into the sharkpool. As there have been so many changes - shops closing and opening - in this small soi, we will endeavor to provide a map of this location showing the precise location of each Venue in our next issue.
SOI 22 - (Sukhumvit)
The Lemongrass Spa has seen it's End-Of-Days, at least as far as Soi 22 is concerned. Regular customers note, they are moving to their new digs in Huay Kwang as we speak... May they find prosperity in their new surrounds. Those interested in leasing the premises can contact them at the number below.
SOI 22 - (Sukhumvit)
As we had feared in our last issue, the once-popular May Massage has gone the way of the Pelagornis sandersi, their 'Traditional Thai' masseuses scattered to the four winds.... The reason: too few customers. ....Darwin wins another hand.
- File photo
SOI 22 - (Sukhumvit)
Som's, located across the Soi from the old entrance to Washington Square have rung up their last check-bin... Neither of the Nitespots at this location did well since the building owners put in the sun/ rain awning that basically hid them from passers-by. Oh well....
We noted last month that the Kizuna Bar was poised to open - which, as can be seen, it did. Geared to the Nippon crowd. Located next to the Pan Pan Italian Restaurant. Welcome them as they cast their lot with the rest...
SOI DEAD ARTISTS - SOI 33
The Soba Juban opened it's doors (softly) on January 20th in the old Fashion Massage Club digs after making some drastic modifications. We're not sure what the function of this Venue is, but it looks like a Federal prison.... Located at the far end of Soi Pan Pan. Welcome them to the Big Uneasy.
SOI DEAD ARTISTS - SOI 33
The Pudao Sweet Love Massage lasted all of a couple of months before tanking : the moon a harsh mistress. Those digs now occupied by the Fine Massage & Spa, which we thought had already opened, but didn't stay that way. We expect they will do a proper opening in the following few days....
SOI DEAD ARTISTS - SOI 33
The Velvet (Christies) had unusual opening / closing hours, so last month when we noted that they were not open for a number of separate observations, we began to be concerned that it had in fact closed. It was closed again this month at survey, so it is officially closed, and off the rolls. ....It's a neon jungle out there. Should they pop back up out of their crypt, we shall duly report....
SOI DEAD ARTISTS - SOI 33
The Top Up 33 Lounge & Bar, in spite of inspired decor and hospitable staff, suffered from Western feng shui problems from the git-go (location-location-location). So it is no surprise that they imploded on the launch pad. Greener pastures, lads and ladies....
- File photo
SOI DEAD ARTISTS - SOI 33
Joy Mahjong / Massage / etc is up to it's old tricks; opening when it wants, closing when it wants. Nice work if you can get it. This month it is "Open". Located in the S 33 Compact Hotel.
Some months ago, when we saw the old Q Bar renovating, we thought it was just a renovation, after all, some portions remained open while works were in progress. But we were wrong. It was eventually transformed into the beautifully appointed Azura Loungebar. And we thought that was the end of it. And we were wrong again. Immediately adjacent to it on the Sukhumvit side, not one but two brand new Nitespots have opened up this last month - the Q up and The Vault Speakeasy Club (our Door Art of the Month this month).
Door Art Of The Month
Award
The Vault Speakeasy Club has carried the 1920's - 1930's speakeasy theme throughout. Their doormen are dressed of yore, compleat with old-fashioned suspenders, the works. Good job, lads and ladies. Easily the best 'Door Art' this month. Let the good times roll.
SOI AMBASSADOR - SOI 11
The Q up (pronounced 'kew up', not 'kwup'), has thrown open its brand-new doors (well, not quite, you need to present yourself at the door for inspection, then you will be let in). Located upstairs above the old Q Bar - hence the name.... And welcome them to the nightgames....
SOI AMBASSADOR - SOI 11
The Zanzibar has some attractive new entranceway decorations. Still home to outdoor live music in the evenings. May they keep on keeping on.
- File photo
SOI AMBASSADOR - SOI 11
Wolff's has added some new neon to it's frontage. But the important thing is, this live jazz bar is staying busy. Get down tonite.
SOI AMBASSADOR - SOI 11
Directly behind, and contiguous to, what used to be the Q Bar (and is now the Azura Loungebar), was the St Moritz Bangkok. The St Moritz closed down a few months back. It has recently reopened as the Elite Musical Theater - whatever that may be.... Welcome them to the neon circus.
SOI AMBASSADOR - SOI 11
If you were to start at the old Q Bar and walk deeper into Soi Ambassador, you would see a small subsoi on the left with a few bits of neon aglare. At the far end of that small subsoi was the massage parlor Lollipop 1, closed a couple months ago. In it's place is the brand-new Pisamai Spa. It offers an unusual combination of service(s) - it opens at 09:00 hrs in the morning, but has outservice call 24/7 - the line continues to blur between specialty massage shops and 'escort service' providers. May they continue to slip 'n slide....
SOI AMBASSADOR - SOI 11
Closed more than it is open, the Banana Club is yet again closed. For the last time? No one knows for sure.... No further comment....
The small sort-of bar beer, sort-of Internet shop VL Internet has closed down. We doubt they will be coming back - they have taken down their sort-of neon sign..... We wish them a soft landing, wherever....
In Bangkok's 'Twilight Zone' The Zeus has gone out of business, it seems. The interior is undergoing massive renovations. Let's adopt a 'wait-and'see' on this one - reopen, or something new?
Bangkok Eyes goes back in time to see
Who was new - And who was through
in the Expat Night Entertainment world.
How many of these old 'oases'
do you remember ?
Patpong I
* The Butterfly opened at the right hand portion of the Gold Finger's. Gold Finger's did not close, they are still open today. The portion occupied by Butterfly eventually became Pussy Collection, also now closed.
* The Butterfly Bar Videotheque closed. No relation to the Butterfly that opened across the street that same month. It was located where the King's Camelot now resides.
Patpong 2
* The Elixer - located on the second floor of the stairwell opposing Foodland closed. No Nitespot currently occupies that space.
* The Bravo also located on the second floor of the stairwell opposing Foodland closed. There is no Nitespot at that location presently.
* The Thai Tradittional Massage (sic) opened newly in the Patpong Barber (which had just closed) digs. There is no Nitespot at that location presently. It was located on the 4th floor of the stairwell opposing Foodland.
* The Bua Luang Karaoke closed. There is no Nitespot at that location presently. It was located on the 4th floor of the stairwell opposing Foodland.
* The Body Talk Cafe Bar closed. There is no Nitespot at that location presently. It was also located on the 4th floor of the stairwell opposing Foodland.
* The Cassanova opened up on the 2nd floor in the Flower Blue (just-closed) slot. Located in Soi Bookstore connecting PPI and PPII. Today no Nitespot occupies that turf.
Soi Cowboy
* No changes that month / year.
Nana Plaza
* No changes that month / year.
Soi Katoey(Silom Soi 4)
* The Deep moved to the 2nd floor just across the street from it's old location. It took over the digs from the Deeper which had just closed. Today this location is home to the Bearbie Bar.
*Helene's Place opened up in the just-closed Crazy Cow. Helene's Place is still there, but is no longer a Night Entertainment Venue, it is now a restaurant.
Buckskin Joe Village(~ March 1988 - 9 June 2006)
(Also known -originally- as Tobacco Road or Soi Rot Fai, and later as Machim [Thai] and Soi Zero)
On India's Southwest coast, in the Kerala State lies the city of Cochin (now Kochi). It is in the midst of its Biennial Celebrations. Adding to the celebratory mood of the town is a number of 'street art' pieces (otherwise known as graffiti) by the anonymous artist Guesswho.
Guesswho's pieces are what he refers to as 'wheat paste'. -Which is actually the means by which he glues his paper productions onto walls. The self-proclaimed 'India's Banksy's' pieces are not created in the street, they are created in the bedroom, or studio, or wherever, then taken to the site and glued onto a wall. Perhaps a better term than 'Street Art' would be 'Home Art Displayed Elsewhere', but then, that is not a very glamorous moniker for an art type. Guesswho has a valid reason for doing this, he says, - it is faster, a lot less chance of being detected. The real Banksy uses (primarily) stencils for the same reason. But while Guesswho may not technically qualify as a 'Street Artist', he certainly meets the criteria for a Graffiti Artist.
Guesswho has come up big-time on the Media radar as of late, having had feature stories appear under the mastheads of several news organizations - to include BBC. Not to mention getting coverage by the likes of Reddit, Facebook, and several other Googleable websites. All of these, of course, have been quick to use the handle "India's Banksy". He has been the subject of several 'anonymous' interviews, some of the interviewers gushing artistically; one claiming his most important attribute is that of being 'eponymous'. One wonders whether these artsy-fartsy interviewers are intent on interviewing Guesswho, or questing after their own personal Pulitzer.... But having said that, his works, using mostly juxtaposition of famous personalities, are interesting, often humorous and usually thought-provoking. It doesn't look like he will fade from the scene any time soon....