BANGKOK EYES PRESENTS -
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This month we return to Khao San Road. But, before we go any further, that appellation, "Khao San Road", has for ages not been nearly inclusive enough to adequately describe this Night Entertainment Area. The adjacent Rambutri Road has been a major part of the equation for years - as can be seen from our previous and quite dated May 2012 article, Khao San Road - A Unique Night Bazaar <link>.
KHAO SAN ROAD
And while we are setting things right, lets not beat around the bush - Khao San isn't what it used to be. Not only that, it isn't even what it used to be after it became a garish Night Bazaar a decade ago - after being a Southeast Asian Nexus for travellers some decades ago. Not an easy admission for me to make - friends telling me that 'that notorious road' had become a relatively unpleasant, somewhat seedy doppelganger of its former self - which only made me all the more eager to get back down there and prove them wrong. They weren't...
KHAO SARN ROAD
Its not that Khao San has changed organically; there are still the slews of shops selling silver jewelry, touts coming out of the woodwork peddling phoney ID cards, mamasans with their trays of deep-fried scorpions and other insects, currency exchange and tour company stalls, ATM machines, massage parlors, street vendors selling everything from harem pants to fake Rasta braids, the usual tattoo & body piercing parlors, restaurant and bar touts tugging at your sleeve inveigling you to partake of 'cocktails' or 'buckets', fake and actual tribespeople in ethnic dress selling whatever they happen to load on their trays, the occasional lady-of-the-evening, old crones selling lottery tickets stapled to wooden boards, others selling fake, immitation and off-brand Viagra, and all the other brick-a-brack and trinkets you can find at any night market or roadside in Bangkok. But what IS different is the lack of vibrancy - the sense of the thriving mass of humanity out having a good (or at least busy) time of it. Like an old clock in bad need of winding, everything seems slower, older, ever-so-slighly stale. The shops and stalls now populated with sellers and vendors who, once upon a time had 'Thai Smiles', but over time have become diminished in some subtle way, defaulting to a 'strictly business' demeanor - like so many Hong Kong / Kowloon hawkers.
The Susie Wong sign doesn't lie - they really have buns with their beer - a small shopfront, they have a lot of take-away.
KHAO SAN ROAD
On the other hand, Rambutri Road (see map) running parallel to Khao San and connected by several lanes, is in ascendency. There are a number of older and new bars, bar-restaurants, massage parlors, clubs and lounges doing a very active trade. This includes weekends and weekdays. Its as if Rambutri Road has sucked the life force out of Khao San and are now claiming it as their own.
RAMBUTRI ROAD
Before we leave the reader with a bunch of photos of some of the noteworthy Nitespots on both roadways, we should note that, because of its prevalence, there is what can be termed a distinct, identifiable Khao San-Rambutri Nitespot Format. It is basically an open-fronted shop or building with seating indoors and outdoors - sometimes even out into the streets. More often than not these Nitespots will be the lower floor of a boutique hotel or hostel (hardly a guest house to be found). They make their money off the drinks, but often have middle-to-extensive menus. They have either live or recorded music. This Khao San-Rambutri Format is ideally suited to the local Bangkok weather, making for many an enjoyable night out.
Should you want to visit The Cliff for your fix of hip-hop, you will need the above map. You will not, repeat NOT find it on your own.
KHAO SAN ROAD
We didn't have the space to put up pics of every Nitespot, but follows is a sampling of what a visitor might encounter.
RAMBUTRI ROAD
The Khao San street food scene is varied and plentiful - the last remnant of the old Khao San....
KHAO SAN ROAD
The Cocktail is one of those Nitespots that thrives because it is entirely casual - a great place to have a drink and not be drowned out by too-loud music.
RAMBUTRI ROAD
The Deep hasn't moved an inch since we last surveyed in 2012.
RAMBUTRI ROAD
Streats takes up most of the ground floor of the iconic, now defunct Vieng Tai Hotel.
RAMBUTRI ROAD
KHAO SAN ROAD
KHAO SAN ROAD
RAMBUTRI ROAD
KHAO SAN ROAD
The Bua Sawat was busy when we surveyed in 2012, and it is busy now. It doesn't have an English language sign, so if you are planning on visiting, take along a copy of this photo.
RAMBUTRI ROAD
KHAO SAN ROAD
KHAO SAN ROAD
KHAO SAN ROAD
KHAO SAN ROAD
KHAO SAN ROAD
The Rocco Bar 1976? Rocco may have existed in 1976, but not on Khao San Road it didn't - if it had, it would have appeared on one of our earlier surveys. But not taking anything away from them, its an active Nitespot.
KHAO SAN ROAD
The Yes is an actual 'guest house' - one of a dying breed - in an area made famous because of 'guest houses'. Oh well...
KHAO SAN ROAD
MIDNITE HOUR MAIL BOX
BANGKOK EYES
Let the October 2018 Follies begin-
One of the few remaining bars around that has retained its "signature signage" - Kiss. This is the original Kiss on PP1, no relation to the bar of the same name on Soi Cowboy.
PATPONG 1
One of two upstairs Pussy Magic rip-off bars closed down. No one noticed. No one has missed it...
PATPONG 1
The original Tokyo Boy closed down two months ago after being in business for just over a month. We thought they were gone for good - not so... ...At that same time, the Tavern Three (located nearby on that strip) closed down and went into major renovations. Last month, half of the ex-Tavern Three became the newly relocated Top Light Bar (see last month's issue). This month, the Tokyo Boy moved into the remaining unoccupied half. (Note: Tokyo Boy's old location, closed last month, looks to open as yet another gay bar, but that will have to be confirmed next time 'round...)
PATPONG 2
Note the subtle addition to Black Pagoda's signage: "Club Black". Is this an adjunct to the Black Pagoda, or a soft opening of something entirely unrelated, or..... When we know more, so will you...
PATPONG 2
The Matador has added, most conspicuously, "Linda" to their signage. Many of you long-time denizens will recall Linda is a familiar name up on The Ramp. May they keep on keeping on.
[A reminder: Virtually all of The Ramp Nitespots are closed on Sundays.]
PATPONG 2
SOI COWBOY
A 'For-The-Archives' photo of the front of Nana Plaza. Last month we put up a similar photo taken from the Sukhumvit Road side. We will be putting up additional 'For The Archive' pics of Nana Plaza in future editions.
NANA PLAZA
The Tamasha Exclusive Indian Club & Lounge located upstairs in the Rajah Hotel Annex has taken the Darwin Early-Out and plummeted headlong into the Abyss. Not that we were surprised, we never saw it busy, even on weekends. Taking its place is the Red Moscow Club & Lounge. If it sounds Russian, it isn't. By all observations it is still an all-Indian endeavor, the Indian doormen not even speaking Thai. Inside is cool and comfortable, and a little too empty - even on weekends - esp in light of the disco at the Nana Hotel still being closed down like Alcatraz. Drinks are reasonable - local beers @ Baht 150, mixed drinks on up. A goodly sized (unused) dance floor and 2 one-person A Go-Go points, one either side of the dance floor. A total of 6 A Go-Go dancers, excuse me, Coyote Dancers, two of which were taller and blonde - looking for all the world like they might be Russian. Nope, tall Thai ladies with blonde hair. (For the uninitiated, Coyotes are A Go-Go dancers who don't wear bikinis, who do wear panty hose under their hot-pants, who charge more for 'dinks', who may -or may not- go out with customers as escort buy-outs.) Welcome to the Machine.
Take note of the downstairs Angels Four in the same photo. They have expanded back into the area previously held down by the now closed You Again ! Bar. Gotsta get paid....
SOI NANA
The impending opening of The Coffee Club Cafe-Bar-Restaurant will tell us one way or the other whether the 'bar' will be an actual Night Entertainment Venue. Located in the Rajah Hotel compound in the newly opened left-hand side. We'll keep an eyeball peeled, and get back atcha.
SOI NANA
Last month we featured Welcome's signage - noting it had 'come of age' as a Nitespot. This month we include a photo (missed last month) for the archives.... Welcome is a scion of The Balcony. May they continue to abide...
SOI KATOEY
Opening up directly across The Soi from the Queen's Park Plaza is the brand-new Ang Bar @ 22 beer bar. Welcome to this town's version of neon roulette...
SOI 22
Last month we noted that Kaede was down and renovating to become yet another massage parlor. Well, it happened - welcome Kaede Massage to the slippery slope.
SOI 22
A case of gone, but not gone. The upstairs Luna Lounge has had its problems in the past staying open, to include being closed on weekend nights. However, it looks like all that is now behind them - they look to be going full-steam-ahead for the long term. Do what you do, do well... Located five steps inside the Honey Plaza.
SOI 22
Abuilding for the last two months, the Healing In Thai Massage & Beauty is poised to open ...and in all likelihood, by the time you read this, it already likely will have opened. Welcome to the night circus. Located just inside Soi Titanium.
SOI 22
A rainy night outside the Aloft - and a glimpse at the neon from their three Nitespot Venues - the WXYZ Bar, the Crave and Levels. One for the Archives.
SOI AMBASSADOR (Sukhumvit Soi 11)
The the latest attempt at a 'comeback' by the Happy Station 11 Bar Beer (last month) ended once again in the dumpster. In that it opens and closes whenever, we are of a mind to only report when the physical bar is torn down and removed..... Hmmmm.
SOI AMBASSADOR (Sukhumvit Soi 11)
What was, for a few brief months, The Gents is now home to Wood Stock L.P. Music Bar. We must admit it does sound tempting - a bar where one actually could go to listen to music, rather than the fabricated, overloud thump-thump dregs of what used to be 'disco', or worse..... rap.... Welcome to the long uphill...
QUEEN's PARK PLAZA (Sukhumvit 22)
The Simple Bar 1, which was closed when we passed by last month, has reopened and is going pedal to the metal. Welcome back, (though you weren't really gone....)
QUEEN's PARK PLAZA (Sukhumvit 22)
What with Soi Dead Artists having become predominantly a construction site, with scattered Japanese Venues - and what with almost nightly rains, things are veeeery quiet. Below is a For-The-Archives pic of the Charming Massage. Located in Soi 33/2, which used to be a very active subsoi, they are now the sole-survivor of that cul-de-sac. May they prevail through the travail.
SOI DEAD ARTISTS (Sukhumvit 33)
What was the Good Time Bar & Rest. for all of one month, or so, has now become the Y'not Bar & Rest. Welcome to the briar patch.
SOI EDEN (Sukhumvit 7 / 1)
The 3R Rebalance Spa has packed in the last of its steamy towels and headed into the wilds.... Greener pastures, ladies...
SOI EDEN (Sukhumvit 7 / 1)
The upstairs X Size has gone the way of the Phoenicopterus Copei, however the real estate is not going to waste - they have opened the X-Size Massage in the downstairs portion. We could be wrong, but this appears to be yet another sign that the gay Twilight Zone is experiencing terminal contraction. Further, we've heard numerous stories of price-gouging from some of the PP1 denizens of the night....
SOI TWILIGHT
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